As you know, the Sure-Fit Designs Shirt Kit does not have a bust dart. Depending on how full your bust is and your expecation of how you would like your shirts to fit and hang, you may want to add a side-fitting bust dart. Follow these easy steps:
3. To begin the dart structure, draw line A-B from your bust point to the hem level. Make sure this line is parallel to the grainline. Then draw line A-C from the bust point to the side seam. This line needs to be perpendicular to the grainline. Then draw line A-D, which is your bust point to the lower third portion of the armscye seam line.
4. Cut on line B-A and then on line A-D. Leave a small paper hinge at the seam line. Then cut from line c to A, leaving a tiny paper hinge at the bust point.
7a. Measure the new dart width that the pattern spread open at the side seam. This will become wider as each cup size increases.
6. The side section will now be longer at the hem level. Generally with a (very) full bust, you will need this extra length. Therefore lengthen the center front portion of the pattern to be the same hem level.
8. Measure from line A-E down on the side seam the width of the dart space that you measured in 7a. Draw line F-G, stopping the dart stitching tip 1"-1 1/2" (2.5 - 3.8 cm) away from your bust point apex.
1. To begin, you need two measurements - your shoulder to apex length and second, your apex to apex width.
2. Divide your apex to apex measurement in half. Then mark your bust point at your shoulder to apex level (where the 2 dimensions intersect).
5. On a separate piece of tracing vellum, draw 2 parallel lines. The fuller your bust, the wider the lines are apart. The space between the lines is as follows:
C-Cup = 1/2" (1.3 cm);
D-Cup = 3/4" (1.9 cm);
DD-Cup = 1" (2.5 cm);
E-Cup = 1 1/4" (3.2 cm).
Continue to separate the lines by 1/4" (0.6 cm) for each larger bra cup size.
Then tape the vellum behind the hem to bust point line B-A. Open and spread the pattern your appropriate width, making sure the cut edges of line A-B remain parallel. Pivot at the armscye point D. If your pattern still has the seam allowance in place, cut up to point D leaving a tiny paper hinge at D. When pivoting the pattern open for the dart, simply allow the seam allowances to overlap as necessary to let the pattern pieces lay flat.
7b. To form the dart, draw line A-E from the bust point to the side seam. This line should be perpendicular to the grainline.
9. 'Perfect' the dart cutting line by folding the lower dart leg F-G, up to meet the upper dart leg A-E. Tape pattern together with removable tape. Cut on seam allowance edge. When unfolded the correct dart extension cutting line is established.
10. Due to this process, the dart width will likely be less in width that the bust dart width provided on the Dress Kit's Adjust-A-Bust template. However, remember that the Shirt Front & Back patterns already have a total of 6" (15.2 cm) overall chest/bust ease. You are simply adding a little more ease and shaping where you need it for your full bust.
Fitting Technique: Adding a Bust Dart
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